Guido Monzino

Biography: Count Guido Monzino (Milan, March 12, 1928-Lenno, October 11, 1988) was an Italian mountaineer and explorer. In 1973, he led the first Italian expedition to climb Everest. In 1948, he climbed the Matterhorn1 and then in 1955, traveled to Senegal, Gambia and Ivory Coast. The following year, he traveled to the Western Alps, Italy and Switzerland. In 1957-1958, he traveled the Paine massif in Patagonia and then in 1959, made the first ascent of Kanjut Sar in the Karakoram. After an expedition to equatorial Africa and Kilimanjaro (1959-1960), he went to western Greenland in 1960. In 1960-1961, he returned to equatorial Africa and climbed Mount Kenya. In 1961, he returned to West Greenland and then in 1961-1962, climbed Rwenzori. By sled in 1962, he reached the 72nd parallel north in Greenland then the 77th parallel north and visited the Stauning Alps (1963). In 1963-1964, he traveled the Sahara including the Tibesti massif. In 1968, he developed a project in homage to the expedition of the Duke of Abruzzi and Umberto Cagni and carried out a nautical expedition to Greenland but he came up against the Danish government which imposed Danish and Inuit crew members on him. In 1969, with nine men including Arturo Aranda and Inuits with their dogs, he left Qeqertaq (February 19) and reached Thule on April 12 after a 1,500 km journey that took him from the Bering Strait to Melville Bay. Extremely difficult weather conditions and cold temperatures of around -45° put an end to the expedition. Monzino formed a second team that left Thule on April 15, 1970 and reached Cape Columbia on May 16 after a 1,200 km journey through Murchison Promontory, Smith Sound, Kane Basin, Kennedy Channel and Lincoln Sea. Relations with the Danish crew members were again conflictual. With Aranda and two Italian guides, Minuzzo and Carel, and twelve Inuits, Monzino left Cape Columbia on April 2 and reached the North Pole after a 71-day walk on chaotic ice and in temperatures of -57°, fighting against a significant drift that took them in the opposite direction. The return was by plane and the team landed in Alert. In 1973 Guido Monzino led the first Italian expedition to Everest. He died of lung cancer on October 11, 1988 and was buried in the Villa Balbianello that he had bought in 1974 from the heirs of Butler Ames. He bequeathed the Villa Balbianello to the Fondo per l'Ambiente Italiano, which today contains a museum dedicated to him.